Expertise from the world of beauty and aesthetic medicine
Introduction
Lynne Sanders, Cosmetic Scientist and Founder of Cosmetics à la Carte, and Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, Chelsea-based Consultant phthalmic and Oculoplastic Surgeon, combine their expertise to create a comprehensive guide to tackling one of the most persistent and common eye-related complaints: how
to enjoy makeup when you have hooded eyes?
Find out more about Dr Elizabeth Hawkes’ expertise in eye health and advanced facial aesthetics, and her extensive range of services, on her website here.
What are hooded eyes?
“Hooded eyes” is a term to describe a type of eyelid where the crease is not fully visible when you look straight ahead. People are often concerned about hooded eyes because of their association with looking older, and because it presents specific challenges for wearing and enjoying eye makeup.
Lynne Sanders explains: “If you have hooded eyes, eyeshadow tends to crease, while eyeliner and mascara can be hard to apply, and smudge more easily.”
What causes hooded eyes?
Dr Elizabeth Hawkes explains that hooded eyes occur when we have excess skin from the brow to the lash line:
“This can be a genetic feature, but can also be a function of age, because our eyelid skin loses its elasticity which leads to redundant folds of skin over time.
The muscles around the eye (orbicularis oculi) and the orbital septum also weaken, allowing fat to prolapse above and below your eyelids.”
What is the best makeup for hooded eyes?
Choose mineral eyeshadow
Mineral powder eyeshadows like Cosmetics à la Carte Eye Define are better than creams for those with hooded eyes.
Lynne describes how, in cases of hooded eyes, “our natural skin’s warmth starts to melt cream eyeshadow, causing creasing.”
How to apply your mineral shadow
Techniques and tips
Step 1
First take a mid-toned neutral mineral eyeshadow in a matte finish.
Use this to create a so-called “false crease” by applying it to your orbital bone, above where your crease really is. It will now be visible even when your eyes are open.
A rounded Socket Brush will be the right shape and size to apply the false crease.
Then reach for a fluffier, domed Blending Brush to fade.”
Step 2
Take a light-toned eyeshadow in a sheen or shimmer finish.
With this you want to illuminate the main part of the eyelid. Although this is only visible when you blink, it will create the illusion that it is bigger and brighter.
Use the same highlighter shade to illuminate the inner corner of the eye next to the nose, to vanish shadows there, and finally apply a layer of beautiful sheen underneath the eyebrow, above your “false crease” created in step 1.
For all this, Lynne recommends a Shadow Brush.
Step 3
Now we turn to eyeliner. With hooded eyes it can be hard to create a straight line, or the line smudges.
Lynne prefers a mineral powder eyeshadow, applied wet instead of a pencil or cream eyeliner. This will be more moisture-resistant and long-lasting.
“Take a drop of fresh water and mix it into your eyeshadow to form a paste. Apply the paste with a fine Eyeliner Brush, aiming in between the eyelashes.”
Apply eyeliner along the full length of the top lashline, but only to the outer third of the lower lashline to keep the eyes looking open
- Step 1
- Step 2
- Step 3
The finishing touch - mascara
The finishing flourish to your look is enhancing and lengthening your eyelashes to open up the eye.
Cosmetics à la Carte Intense Volume Mascara creates volume and length quickly and easily.
If your mascara persistently smudges, you can also explore individual false lashes or semi-permanent lash extensions.
Intense Volume Mascara
£32.00
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What shades should I choose?
We recommend colour choices according to your eye colour
Blue / Grey eyes
Great shades are Willow for the false crease, Champagne for highlight, and Navy Blue as a liner
Green / Hazel Eyes
Great shades are Mink for the False Crease, Peach for highlights and Blackberry for the eyeliner
Brown / Black eyes
Great shades are Cedar for False Crease, Bisque for highlights and Beaver for eyeliner
Can hooded eyes be 'fixed'?
If you are not happy with the fact your eyes are hooded, there is a medical intervention that can help.
Blepharoplasty is the gold standard surgical procedure to correct hooded eyes by remodelling the eyelid structure.
An expert in this particular oculoplastic procedure, Dr Elizabeth Hawkes explains that blepharoplasty “involves complex combinations of skin removal, muscle tightening, and fat repositioning or removal. Every eyelid is unique, meaning the surgical plan and procedure is a highly bespoke process.”
When performed for aesthetic reasons, blepharoplasty, or eyelid lift, can make your eyes appear younger and more alert.
Dr Elizabeth Hawkes stresses that blepharoplasty – one of her most requested treatments - isn’t facelift surgery: “you won’t come out looking like an entirely different version of yourself - but you will look a lot brighter, refreshed and less tired.”
